Want to understand the 'Why' behind the artistry of a Smokey Eye?

In this lesson I am breaking down the anatomy of this iconic look and taking it one step farther to show you how a Smokey Eye differs on different eye shapes.

Forget everything you thought you knew about eye shapes because I am rewriting the rules and unveiling my secret method to EyeCHITECTURE discovery - which will leave you speechless.

You may agree with me when I say the conventional standard to identifying eye shapes is more confusing than helpful. I will take you back in time as we explore our obsession, as makeup artists, with correction makeup, dating all the way back to the 1930s. From archaic beauty devices to modern micro-blading stencils - our never-ending quest to beauty perfection.

The entire concept of eye makeup is to enhance what is already there. The makeup artist uses eye shadow (powder or cream) to exaggerate the natural shape of the eye, achieved by specific placement of dark tones in the grooves of the eye, to make the grooves look deeper. Another approach is to define the natural lines of the eye to make them pop out or noticeable, achieved by tracing over the lines using dark tones such as defining the lower eye opening with a pencil in the waterline.

In contrast the natural high-planes of the eye can also be exaggerated with light tones. For example placing a bright eye shadow on the upper-most tip of the eyelid - specifically over the ball of the eye as seen in the illustration below (the zone defined by the red grid).

Equally, makeup is utilized to minimize, reduce or 'correct' an element or a feature. In such occasions a makeup artists will choose dark tones or light tones to create the desired optical illusion, or visual effect. For example, when balancing 'deep-set eyelid/hooded' eyes, or balancing 'descending/down-turned' eyes as you will see in the video lesson coming up.

With my secret method to identify the EyeCHITECTURE, you will be equipped with the knowledge to conquer any eye shape with confidence.

One of the most exciting and rewarding aspects of makeup artistry is mastering the art of eye makeup application. The eyes are often considered the focal point of most makeup look, and learning how to balance & enhance them effectively is essential to your success in the industry.

By utilizing shading and highlighting techniques along with proper color placement, makeup artists can correct and enhance the appearance of the eyes, resulting in a harmonious and flattering makeup look.